December 10-13, 2024 Firearms & Militaria
This lot is closed for bidding. Bidding ended on 12/10/2024
This fine pair of buff kerseymere breeches is the earliest-known, extant component of the uniform of a United States Navy commissioned officer. "Kerseymere", or cassimere as it became known, was a fine-twilled woolen cloth of worsted warp and woolen weft in a diagonal twill weave and particularly favored during the late 18th and early 19th century for genteel waistcoats and breeches, as well as facings and turnbacks for officers' uniforms. Although its original wearer is not presently known, from its dimensions we know that he probably had a 30-inch waist and stood at 5 foot 10. The breeches are fully in accord for the first published set of uniform regulations of the U.S. Navy, published in 1797 and in force until superceded in 1802, when the officers' buff smallclothes were changed to white. As they would not be seen under the waistcoat, the waistband, fall suspender buttons are made of bone or wooden "moulds", covered with kerseymere. The knee buttons are the first pattern of US Navy button, being 5/8-inch, flat, gilt-brass and bearing an eagle with an oval shield on his breast, in which is a fouled anchor--all encircled by 16 stars representing the states of the union (Tennessee being admitted in 1796). The waistband and fall are lined with fine linen. CONDITION: Very good overall, with a few scattered, tiny insect nips, and some period darning repairs to small holes in the rear and lower, with a few spots of light soiling and one larger stain on the right rear panel; only 5 of the original 8 knee buttons still survive, with 90% of the gilding intact.