REVOLUTIONARY WAR ERA UNIFORM COAT, UNKNOWN UNIT.

This lot is closed for bidding. Bidding ended on 12/10/2024

A rare uniform coat in cut and construction clearly dates to the period 1770-1785 that merits further research and study. Purchased from an antique dealer in New England. The coat is made of a relatively fine broadcloth, not quite superfine, with fall-down collar and "round" cuffs of the same, the breast of the coat, collar and cuffs edged with 3/8-inch-wide gold lace. The cuffs are 3 1/4 inches deep and the "fall" of the collar is 2 inches and rounded in front. There is another band of lace parallel to the edging on the cuff, set in approximately 1 inch. The skirts are trimmed with same lace as edges the coat, but with a loop at the top of each "false" side plait, with three branching lengths of lace, each approximately 9 in. L and ending in a fringe tassel 1 3/4 in. long. The skirts of the coat hook back in standard 18th century military manner with hooks and eyes at the ends. Inside, the coat is completely lined in linen dyed a pale orange shade and it has welted pockets with deep bags at the skirts. The coat was constructed without a single button or buttonhole!! One might argue that the coat is civilian, but the lack of buttons and holes and the military aspects of its construction tend to make me think otherwise. In more than 40 years of personal study of 18th century military and civilian coats, I have never seen a civilian coat with hooks and eyes set for turn-backed skirts. The lace arrangement on the false skirts mirrors that seen on British light dragoon jackets from c. 1778-1800 and are almost identical to what was prescribed by Henry Knox for US rifle coatees in 1787. The rows of lace set on the cuffs was often used as a rank distinction during this period in lieu of epaulettes or shoulder knots and we know that during both the French and Indian War & the Revolutionary War, the British Army sometimes removed the lapels from their coats to reduce both weight and keep soldiers cooler in hot weather campaigning. The coat is merely closed in front with two sets of hooks and eyes. One might also argue that this is some sort of livery uniform, but I have never seen one of this nature in collections or in period artwork. During the Revolutionary War and Federal periods, a number of American volunteer units were raised in which the men were only called on to wear a coats or jackets of same color, thereby a coat could have double use--both for civilian activities and military service, but still afford a degree of uniformity in a unit without great cost to the members. I believe that this coat might be such a garment. Moreover, in the collection of Don Troiani is an identified uniform coat of a Massachusetts colonel from 1774-177. CONDITION: Good to very good but would benefit from restoration; the coat shows a good deal of period wear, with sweat staining under the arms and stress at that point from activity (there is 3-inch rent below the armhole on the right side and the armhole seam is open for about 2 inches on the left). There is wear to the elbows and the left elbow has a neatly done, period patch approximately 1 x 1/2 in.; a few scattered, small insect nips, mostly on the upper back and torso area.